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“Where every bottle tells a story”
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It is a truth seldom acknowledged in polite society that a glass of wine, however elegantly poured, may contain not only the fruits of the vineyard but also the misfortunes of the cellar. One is told, with an air of authority, that a particular bottle is “spoiled,” “corked,” or “over the hill,” yet the poor guest, uncertain of the precise meaning of such condemnations, can only smile weakly and pretend comprehension. It is to rescue the conscientious drinker from this unhappy state of ignorance that we must speak plainly of wine faults: their names, their natures, and the ways in which a well-informed palate may detect them.
For though it may wound our sensibilities to admit it, not every bottle is a paragon of virtue. Some wines are merely shy, some ill-bred, and some quite irredeemably wicked. To distinguish one from another is not only a protection to one’s enjoyment, but a mark of cultivation as sure as any knowledge of literature, music, or dance.
Before we descend into the catalogue of imperfections, we must define our terms. A wine fault is not simply a characteristic one does not personally enjoy. A lady who prefers light, delicate wines may find a powerful, tannic red rather overbearing, but that does not render the wine faulty—only mismatched.
A fault, properly speaking, is a defect that arises from:
A fault overwhelms or distorts the wine’s intended character. It is as if a well-bred gentleman arrived at a ball in muddy boots: his natural qualities may still be there, but they are obscured by a very obvious impropriety.
Wine faults may be grouped into several principal categories:
Let us examine each with the careful attention any scandal deserves.
Among all wine faults, none is so often whispered about at dinner tables as “corked” wine. The term does not refer to stray fragments of cork floating in the glass (though these may vex the eye), but to a specific chemical compound, most commonly 2,4,6-trichloroanisole—mercifully abbreviated to TCA.
Origin:
TCA is usually formed when natural cork or winery materials come into contact with certain chlorinated compounds. The cork, once tainted, passes its misfortune to the wine.
Aromas and Flavours:
The fruit aromas of the wine seem to vanish, as if embarrassed to appear in such company. The wine tastes flat, joyless, and prematurely tired.
Severity:
In well-ordered establishments, a corked bottle should be replaced without hesitation. To accept it out of politeness is a form of self-sacrifice that no one is bound to make.
If cork taint is a betrayal from within, oxidation is more akin to a slow, melancholy wasting away. Wine, exposed excessively to oxygen, ages too quickly and without grace.
Causes:
Signs of Oxidation:
Some wines—sherry, certain oxidative whites, and some traditional styles—embrace controlled oxidation as a virtue, much as some characters in society thrive on drama. But when a fresh, youthful wine smells prematurely like a dusty attic, one must suspect that oxygen has been overindulged.
If oxidation is the result of too much air, reduction is the child of too little. In tightly sealed environments, certain sulfur compounds may develop, leading to aromas that are, at best, challenging and, at worst, quite uncivil.
Mild Reduction:
In some modern wines, especially certain whites, these can be considered fashionable, even desirable, like a slightly sardonic remark at a tea party.
Severe Reduction:
A swirl of the glass, or allowing the wine a little time to breathe, may ease mild reduction. If, however, the odours remain as stubborn as an ill-tempered cousin, the wine is likely genuinely faulty.
Wine, like any society, may harbour unruly elements. Among these, Brettanomyces—commonly called “Brett”—is perhaps the most infamous. It is a wild yeast that, when left unchecked, may impose its own character upon the wine, whether invited or not.
Aromas Associated with Brett:
In the most delicate doses, some tasters find Brett adds complexity, a kind of rustic charm. But when it dominates, it overwhelms fruit, terroir, and winemaker’s intention alike. The wine begins to resemble a stable yard more than a vineyard, and not even the most romantic sensibility can forgive that for long.
Other microbes may cause:
A small measure of VA can lift aromas and add liveliness, much as a spirited remark may enliven a conversation. Too much, however, and the wine becomes shrill and abrasive, like a guest who will not stop talking.
Sulfur dioxide (SO₂) is employed in winemaking to protect wine from oxidation and microbial spoilage; it is, in general, a most useful and loyal servant. Yet if misapplied, it may make its presence too plainly felt.
Excessive Sulfur Aromas:
Often these aromas fade with aeration, so one should not condemn a wine too hastily. A few minutes in the glass may restore harmony. If, however, the sulfurous notes persist and smother the fruit entirely, one may suspect a fault rather than a passing indisposition.
Even the most well-bred wine may be ruined by poor treatment after it leaves the chateau—rather like a young lady of promise sent to stay with a thoroughly unsuitable aunt.
Heat Damage (“Cooked” or “Maderised” Wine):
Lightstrike (particularly in delicate whites and sparkling wines):
Such damage is not the fault of the wine’s birth, but of its upbringing. Proper storage—cool, dark, and steady—is as essential to a bottle’s character as a good education is to a gentleman’s.
There are certain conditions which, while technically permissible, may be so exaggerated as to feel like faults to many drinkers. These include:
While these are not microbial or chemical faults in the strictest sense, they may be considered faults of judgment—analogous to a gentleman who dresses impeccably but speaks with unforgivable arrogance. The wine may be sound, yet its manners are questionable.
To discern wine faults is not a gift bestowed only upon the chosen few. It is an accomplishment any person of curiosity may acquire, with a little observation and practice.
Some practical counsel:
To send back a truly faulty bottle is not rude; it is merely the assertion of reasonable standards. No one is obliged to drink mould and vinegar merely to appear agreeable.
In the great society of wines, as in that of people, perfection is rare and flaws are many. Some are charming, some tolerable, and some quite intolerable. To understand wine faults is not to become a tiresome pedant, forever finding fault where others find pleasure. Rather, it is to cultivate discernment: to know when a wine is merely eccentric and when it is truly unsound.
Armed with the language of faults—cork taint, oxidation, reduction, Brettanomyces, volatile acidity, heat damage—you are no longer at the mercy of vague discontent. You may name what is wrong, distinguish accident from intention, and decide, with calm authority, whether a particular bottle deserves your patience, your time, and your company.
For in the end, wine is a companion at table, not a tyrant. It ought to bring delight, not resignation. And just as one learns, over time, to choose one’s acquaintances with care, so too may one learn to choose and judge one’s wines—with wit, with elegance, and with a firm, unflustered understanding of their faults.
Tannins are astringent compounds found in wine that contribute to its texture and aging potential, often causing a drying or puckering sensation in the mouth. They are derived from grape skins, seeds, and stems, as well as from oak barrels used during aging.
/ˈtænɪnz/
Malic acid is a naturally occurring organic acid found in grapes that contributes to the tart, green apple-like flavor and crispness in wine. It plays a significant role in the taste and acidity of wine.
/mælɪk ˈæsɪd/
Filtration in winemaking is the process of removing solid particles from wine to clarify and stabilize it before bottling, using various types of filters to achieve different levels of clarity and remove unwanted elements like yeast, bacteria, and sediment.
/fɪlˈtreɪʃən/
Oxidation in wine is a chemical reaction between the wine and oxygen that can change its flavor, aroma, and color. This process can be beneficial or detrimental depending on the extent and context of the exposure.
/ˌɒksɪˈdeɪʃən/
Microclimate refers to the unique climate conditions of a small, specific area within a larger region, significantly influencing grapevine growth and the characteristics of the resulting wine.
/ˈmīkrōˌklīmit/
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